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Finishing touches came via a collab with Crocs – perhaps scored hurriedly from a shop on the strip when your pals thought it would be funny to chuck your shoes in the sea the night before – and upcycled vintage sunnies.
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Then began an endless eBay search for yet more of these brilliantly naff slogan tees, from which her own ‘I caught crabs in Brighton’ knitted tank was born (seriously: want).Ĭiting that first, alcohol-fuelled holiday free from your parents grasp as further inspo – RIP 18-30s, gone but not forgotten – the designer’s signature chunky knits were crafted from silky yarns that rendered them slightly more beach-appropriate, while elevated sportswear-inflected pieces including track tops and hoodies were matched with shiny, semi-opaque shorts and louche pants in gaudy shades of fire engine red and punchy mustard – not sure how they’d work in 35 degree heat, but on a catwalk in East London they looked great at least.
Inspiration for next summer came via a deep dive into her dad’s chest of drawers back at her family home in Ireland, from which she dug out a well-loved souvenir t-shirt her mum bought on a trip to Mallorca way back in 1983. The Dublin-born designer wasn’t only presenting her latest collection, she was also celebrating her 30th birthday – but, in a twist on the usual tradition, she gave us a the gift of an extremely fab collection on what was supposed to be her special day.
Saturday was a big day for Robyn Lynch, who took over a cavernous space on Brick Lane for her SS23 show.
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As per usual, the accessories were a high point, with earrings still attached to their display backing, bags and necklaces strung with keyrings depicting erogenous zones and archive Martine Rose imagery, and bondage-y hardware punctuating chunky heels – as well as a brand new collab with Nike which fused a classic sneaker with a smart shoe and is highly likely to be an immediate sellout. Womenswear was back on the menu for SS23, too, with blown-up, back-to-front blazers becoming dresses, and slinky satin minis matched with oversized leopard-print shirts.
This meant boxy tailored jackets and trousers with skew-whiff seams and hems, wonky shirt collars, conspicuously wrinkled crotches, and too-small tees bearing ‘Eager Beaver’ slogans that looked like they’d been borrowed for the walk of shame. Or perhaps you’d even been caught in the act?
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Think: the awkward, lust-fuelled moment your lover’s attempting to get your buttons or zip undone, or the next morning, when you’re trying to scoop up all your clothes and score an Uber without waking them up. Modelled against a wipe-clean latex curtain by her usual rag-tag line-up of characters, the collection itself was bubbling with sexual tension, as Rose turned out a series of looks that looked like their wearer had either been in a hurry to get them on or a rush to get them off before being pushed out onto the catwalk. Housed under a Vauxhall railway arch, the sweaty, much-missed venue was once the home of days-long raves and debauchery, before it sadly closed down in early 2021 – another LGBTQ+ nightlife spot and safe space lost to London’s rising prices and rampant gentrification. This time around, Rose ditched North London and headed in the direction of Southwark, where she took over former gay spa Chariots. A massive highlight of the weekend was the return of Martine Rose – who’s not shown IRL since way back in 2019 – and truly, what a show it was.
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